Got up very, very early, my bad, I woke up zero dark early with the net result that we spent an hour extra at Helsinki airport really, really early, G was justifiably annoyed. Still we got to Tallinn airport and as we had a few hours before our connecting flight to Moscow well, exploring the Old Town was on the cards. Handy hint there are lockers at the airport for luggage and the bus leaves from right outside to do a loop route through the city, oh and if you’ve a flight to catch you need to watch your time and know the stops. If you’ve ever watched some soviet era period piece films you may find the streets of the old town strangely familiar, or so says G. Apparently Tallinn was a stock location for Soviet art directors after a ‘European’ feel to their film, with Sovfilms Sherlock Holmes and The Three Musketeers being shot here. Back during the ‘good old days’ of the cold war the KGB also co-opted St Olaf’s spire for use as a radio transmitter, nowadays Tallinn hosts NATO’s cybersecurity research centre.
In some ways the visiting in the off season is great as you don’t have to rub shoulders with a billion other folk. You can get a feel for the place and go where you please without feeling like an ambulatory sardine. The Estonian museum in the old guild hall was open and I’d recommend it if you’re interested in the violent history of the place. After learning a little bit about the history of Estonia I’m thinking of a new Estonian tourism board slogan, “Come invade Estonia this summer, everybody else has”. If you’ve got the time then spiral around the lower old town before making your way up the hill to Toompea, the upper town, where the current national government sits, and where you can get some great views out over the lower town and across to the gulf of Finland beyond. Funny to think that we spend a few hours here then it’s back to Moscow with one day left on my Russian visa (that will take some explaining) and the start of the journey home.