Versailles

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In the Halls of the Sun King

A bright friday dawned as we departed Paris for Versailles on the RER to experience the great palace of Versailles.

As architecture as a political statement Versailles is right up there with Washington, the Kremlin or Karnak. This place is designed with one thing in mind, to impress the friends of the king and intimidate his enemies.20120901-114144.jpgAnd Versailles is huge, so big that they run a train around the grounds for the tourists. So big in fact that it can’t be described in a single blog post. 🙂20120901-114408.jpgWhat you don’t see in the picture below is the giant, water wheel powered, hydraulic machine that pumped the water for Versailles through the miles of underground pipes and aqueducts. All that magnificent engineering hidden away, sigh…20120901-114337.jpgThe royal chapel, commissioned by Louis XIV. Every day at 10am the court would attend the king’s mass, as befitted the anointed of god on earth. The king and family would sit in the royal gallery (right above the door) with the ladies of the court sitting along the side galleries. The officers of the court and the public sat in the nave below.20120901-114527.jpgThe view from the royal apartments to the east. In the morning the Sun King would walk to the window and greet the rising sun, very, well pharaonic really.

If an English monarch had tried this on there’d be a revolution. In fact there were, several of them. Absolutism is something of a continental taste it seems.20120901-114428.jpgAnd looking the other way, Louis XIV’s royal bed.20120901-114453.jpgThen there’s room after room of magnificent frescoes.20120901-114647.jpgAnd of course the most famous room in Versailles, the hall of mirrors. Built at a time when Venice held the monopoly, they were among the most expensive things you could posses. So you can imagine what these 17 mirrored arches would have set Louis XIV back.20120901-114719.jpgDespite the venetian monopoly the mirrors were actually constructed in France by emigre Venetian glass makers in accord with the economic principle of mercantilism. The rumour goes that the Venetian government dispatched assassins to murder these glass makers, though by the look of it unsuccessfully.20120901-114737.jpgThe hall has seen a lot of history, though my favourite moment is the the Bal es Ifs (Ball of the Yew Trees) where Louis the XV, wearing the costume of a yew tree, met Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson d’Étiolles, costumed as Diana, goddess of the hunt. Jeanne-Antoinette became in time the king’s mistress, you might know her better as Madame de Pompadour.20120901-114808.jpgThe hall of mirrors has also seen it’s share of serious politics, the Germans crowned the Emperor here at the end of the Franco Prussian war in the 19th century, and in turn the warring powers signed the Treaty of Versailles here bringing WW 1 to a close. Turnabout is fair play I guess.20120901-114852.jpgLooking out to the formal gardens, and it looks like they’ve got the builders in…20120901-115015.jpgThe North or Lawn Paterre, an ornamental lawn, facing the grand apartments. You can see some of the eighteen statues that surround it.20120901-115049.jpgThe Knife-grinder by the Keller Brothers (after Foggini) at the top the central stairway to the North Parterre.20120901-115135.jpg

20120901-115159.jpgA view across the Basin de Lantone down the Tapis Vert to the grand canal and onward to the vanishing point.20120901-115312.jpg

One response to “Versailles

  1. Pingback: The Hermitage | My Favourite Year·

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